Group Monuments of Hampi - 109

Group Monuments of Hampi

One of the places that should not be missed in India is Hampi. A place filled with rocky terrain, the structures and sculptures are so awe inspiring that can leave one spell bound. Every structure has a story behind it. It is one place that is better travelled with a guide to make it more interesting and meaningful.

Anegundi Maa Durga temple

Maa Durga Temple in Anegundi, also known as anegondi, surrounded by hills on three sides and tungabadhra on the fourth, is an ancient place believed to exist from the time of Ramayana. With colourful clothes hanging from the trees tied by people for blessings, located on Hippie side where the kings worshipped before every battle.

It is believed that Anegundi was called Kishkindha, the kingdom of monkeys. 

Parking for vehicles are at the base and one has to climb the stairs to reach the temple. This Temple is well maintained. There is a cave further up on the hill which can be climbed.

Key attraction of the temple is the stone that revolves in clockwise direction when you put your hands on it. you need to put your both hands on the stone, close your eyes and wish. Stone will revolve only if your wish is granted.

Bheema’s gate

Bhima’s Gate a massive gateway that has stood the test of centuries of rain and shine, is one of the many gateways that allowed entry to the walled city. Located between the domed gate and the Ganagitti Jain Temple, It is one of the strongest entrance for the fortified city

A classic example of the Vijayanagara military architecture, it shows Bhima carved on the gate with a flower called Saugandhika. There is an interesting episode attached to this flower in the epic Mahabharatha..

With its complex design, One cannot cross this archway in a straight line. but enter this gateway complex through its western arch. Once you reach a huge tall block of a wall like structure, turn right, left and then once again left to go around this obstruction to reach the exit at the north.

In effect this works like a blind spot for the invading army. The elephant mounted forces will find it difficult to take quick turns without facing some surprise attacks.

Draupadi (Pandava’s wife) is seen tying her hair. Slaying of Kichaka depicted next (A Mahabharatha episode). These scenes are carved as murals on the gate. Interesting is the lotus bud tipped brackets supporting the lintel.

Chandikesvara temple

Chandikeshwara Temple is a famous Vaishnava temple, although name suggests it to be a Shiva temple, faces towards the eastern side with a front hall equipped with pillars. The unique architecture of the brave lion Yali is seen trampling elephants under its rear feet. On the Pillars, We find religious themes and ideas. 

We see two sub-shrines: one in the north-western part with a huge main shrine in the central part. There is an adorned hall inside the main shrine. There are no idols in the sanctum sanctorum of Chandikeshwara Temple now. However It is believed that there existed a Vaishnava idol here. In the majority of the pillars are embedded with Vaishnava themes like images of Lord Hanuman, Kamadhenu, Garuda or the eagle. These pillars are connected to the gigantic granite beams by Lotus bud-tipped capitals.

Constructed by Mortar and brick, some partially destroyed stucco images can be seen in the main shrine. There an idol of Lord Krishna crawling and there is a domed pinnacle on top. A 700-pillared wall is present in the south-western part of the temple grounds. Currently, this temple serves only as an interesting historial site visited by tourists.

Elephant Stables

Elephant Stable is a major tourist attraction. This long building with a row of 11 domed chambers, some interconnected, was used to house the royal elephants. The decorated and big central one was probably used by the musicians and band troupes during celebrations involving elephant processions.

In this symmetrical building, the tower of the central hall resembles (though mostly destroyed) a temple. However the five pairs of domes on either side in Islamic style, are better preserved and show alternating patterns. Metal hooks (used to tie the elephants) can be seen and the rear of each hall shows small openings for mahouts to enter the compartments. 

Ganagitti jain temple

Here Jain monuments co-exist with Hindu monuments. The Jain temples are with the same style of construction. Situated next to the Bhima’s gate,  the Jain temple complex, dedicated to Kunthunatha, the 17th Thirthankara of the jaina faith, was built by Iruga, Commander-in- chief of Harihara II and consecrated in 1386 AD.

The huge lamp-column, an example of vijayanagar architecture and influenced by the later chalukyas,  at the north facing entrance is simple in design and  has an inscription which refers to as the Kunthunatha jain temple. 

The temple's elevation has a terraced super structure over the sanctum, and a porch to the north and east.

Hanuman temple

The hill temple at top is dedicated for Hanuman, the monkey warrior god. This hill can be seen from a distance from a distance.The temple has a trail of steps zigzag to the top.

The temple is of high importance to the Vaishnavities.  Ramayana is recited here in Hindi.  

The temple door is always kept closed (to prevent the monkeys enter inside). The priest offers holy water and the vermilion colored powder as Prasad. 

The icon of Hanuman is carved on the rock. There is a small shrine for Rama and his consort Sita inside the temple.

The view from the hilltop is enchanting with the rugged rocky mountains and the mighty Tungabhadra river. 

The way to the hilltop is stepped and some times steep. Since there are no shops at the top, advisable to take water, snacks etc from the base. 

We took an autorickshaw and reached the base and climbed up which took about 45 minutes.  can be done in 30 minutes if you are strong.

Beware of the monkeys as they keep looking for an opportunity to snatch your bag. Do not try to tease them as they can turn aggressive if annoyed. Leave only the footwear out side (which they don’t touch) when you enter the temple.

Hazara Rama temple

Hazara Rama temple, whose construction started in 1513 and ended before the reign of Krishnadevaraya,  is an elegant temple in Hampi.

Located in the heart of the royal area, it was functioning as a private temple for the king and his family. 

The temple opening in the east has a flat roofed dvaramandapa with symmetrical pillars. When you enter through the doorway we find a square rangamandapa, which has blackstone pillars which contains sculptures of gods and goddesses, like Ganesha, Mahishamardini, Hanuman and different forms of Vishnu.

We find Kalki holding in his four hands sankha, chakra, sword, and shield mounted on a horse. The rangamandapa has entrances to the south and north and the western entrance leads to the sanctum with a door leading to the open enclosure. The garbhagriha and the vimana are seen from here.

The outer wall of the prakara is divided into five horizontal parts, each containing rows of elephants, horses, and Krishnalila stories in addition to Subramanya, Ganesha etc. It is very interesting to find sculptures depicting  the stories of Rishyasringa, Putrakameshti yaga, Sita svayamvara scene etc.

To the north of the main sanctum is the ornamented small shrine for the goddess. There is bas-relief of Lord Narasimha on the wall. A sculpture On depicts a Vaishnava saint identified as Vyasraya offering something to a king who is assumed as Krishnadevaraya. The Kalyana mandapa here is built in 1521 A.D.

This only temple in hampi with its external walls decorated with such bas-reliefs, got its name Hazara Rama (a thousand Rama) Temple owing to the numerous the Ramayana panels on its walls.

There is a path that connects the Royal Enclosure with the Zenena Enclosure passing along the temple courtyard which is met by  the path from Danaik’s Enclosure and Underground Shiva Temple

Hemakunta hill temple

Often referred to as Jain Temples, these temples on the Hemakuta hill is a beautiful in Hampi. It is dediated to Shiva worship while the architecture with Pyramid like roof resembles a Jain shrine.

We have Trikutachala style temples located on the northern end of the hills. We find three shrines positioned perpendicular to the next facing a common central hall. The outer walls of the temples have horizontal chain of floral motifs carved around along with fluted foundation and the curvy overhanging eaves.

There are old clusters temple complexes scattered on the hill top and the vicinity. The largest ones are located facing the Virupaksha temple campus. 

The chain of temples on Hemakuta Hill (northern side) can be reached from the Virupaksha temple side. There is a gigantic sheet of rock with undulation.

There is a pond in the courtyard of a shrine. Called Mula (the original) Virupaksha temple, it is more ancient than Virupaksha temple. The front hall has a series of cubical pillars of pre-Vijayanagara style. Interestingly, while the porch faces the water body and the steps from the porch lands into the water. The temple is in active use for worship

A Hanuman image is installed inside the shrine which is a tiny chamber with pyramid roof. A very nice spot to view sunrise/sunset.

Moving south, you can get an aerial view of the Krishna Temple, Sasivekalu Ganesha, the twin monuments of Lakshminarashiha and Badavilinga shrine where the two storied southern gateway to the hilltop can be seen. In this area too temples in pre-Vijayanagara style can be seen along with tall monolithic lamp posts. The exit through the gateway leading to a flight of steps lands at the Sasivekalu Ganesha.

The Hemakuta Hill area is fortified. Broken at many places, The boundary can still be seen.

Kadelakavu Ganesa

The Kadalekalu Ganesha temple on the slopes Hemakunta is a fine example of the Vijayanagar architecture. The beautiful temple has the statue of Ganesha which is one of the largest in southern India. As the belly of the statue resembles a Bengal gram, he gets the name. Tall granite pillars decorated with various mythological characters are seen.

Krishna Temple

Built by Krishnadevaraya in honour of winning the battle and annexure of Utkala or the eastern reign of Udayagiri. 

The temple has exquisite carvings and elegant architectural designs. The main idol of Lord Balakrishna is now displayed in the State Museum at Chennai. A rare intact temple with many adorned pillared halls and many small shrines with inscriptions of epics, having epics inscribed on the tower walls. 

There is a hall in the east. There are Banana plantations in the south of the temple. The long pavilions in the temple were initially shops. While on the left is a rocky landscape, there is a temple pond which is not in use anymore.

There is a rectangular building which is presumed to a granary built in Islamic style. Behind the granary is a passage of stairs which offers beautiful view of temple.

Lotus Mahal

This fine architecturally designed lotus like unique palace used by royal woman for socialising, is within the Zenana Enclosure.

Built in a mix of Hindu and Islamic style and otherwise called the Kamal Mahal or Chitragani Mahal, the highlight is its design and remarkably not damaged by weather or destroyed by invaders.

A two storied structure with an open base floor the sidewalls and having tall arched windows, the upper floors have balconies with arched windows. To hang curtains there are hook like structures on the wall. With recessed and ornate ground floor arches, the Islamic style arches and the Hindu style multiplayer roof and base structure are master creations of Vijayanagar artisans. The lawn around is well developed

A very beautiful and highly photographed building at Hampi, The illumination at night is a sight to behold.

Malyavantha Raghunatha temple

When Rama and Lakshmana were looking for a shelter during the monsoon season, Rama aimed an arrow in the direction of Malyavanta hill causing a crack on the hill. They stayed here before their journey to Lanka.

The images of Rama and Lakshmana are in a sitting posture, with Sita and Hanuman, in a kneeling posture.  Around this boulder is the temple, with the images inside the inner shrine. There is a tower structure over the boulder. 

While the temple complex is similar in stye to large temple complexes in Hampi, The whitewashed pillared hall stands in the centre of the complex. On the southwest quarter is the Marriage hall. on the northern side of the main shrine  is the sub-shrine of the goddess and towards the south there is a natural well with carved image of Krishna playing flute carved on the inner surface

A long arcade facing the compound along the enclosure wall, was used as a shelter and place for prayer by the pilgrims

There is a massive boulder almost covering the entrance near the east tower entrance.  A little ahead there is a Hanuman shrine and on the south is another gateway. On either side of a small opening at the rear part (west) of the enclosure wall, there are beautiful work, mostly of aquatic creatures.

At  the site slightly further is a Shiva Cave Temple, built under a massive boulder offering great view. The road to Vittala, the cleft caused by Rama's arrow and rows of Shiva lingas and Nandi images carved on the rock can be seen.

The entry arch to Temple on the Kampili road from Kamalapura, is on left.

Archaeological museum

This small museum near Kamalapura, can be visited on the way to the southeast end of the Hampi ruins.

The museum contains detailed display scaled Hampi topography with the monuments located on it. We have at the central courtyard a miniature of Hampi as a whole, complete with its hills and rivers with a smaller detailed model inside the last gallery with a comprehensive view of the Royal Centre.

The museum has four principal sections:

1. The first section exhibits the Hampi model mentioned above.
2. The second section is about the sculptures and idols with emphasis on artefacts belonging to Veerabhadra cult and Shiva worship. This includes Veerabhadhra, Bhairava, Bhikshatana-murthi, Mahishasuramardini, Shakthi, Karthikeya and Vinayaga.
3. The third section displays the tools, arms, coinages and other objects used during the vijayanagara period. Books of brass and bundled with a ring on display is Unique
4. The fourth is the display of antiques from the prehistoric and proto historic period. The miniature replica of the Royal Centre is exemplary with finer details.

The Museum run by Archeological Survey of India is open from 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM and closed on Fridays and other national holidays. Entrance Fee: Rs. 5/- per head with children up to 15 years are admitted free. Photography of the exhibits on display in the lawn outside only are permitted. 

Nandi

Nandi is the celestial Bull and vehicle of Lord Shiva. Every Shiva  temple will be incomplete without his presence. 

Yeduru Basavanna, The Huge Monolith Nandi Statue at Hampi, constructed on a raised platform is located opposite to the famous Virupaksha Temple. With basic carvings and huge boulders behind, the stone lamp idol with spikes are a little away from main structure.

The slightly damaged but yet beautiful Nandi is believed to protect the town. This site is the main location for annual Vijaya Utsav, the Hampi Arts festival held in November.

Lakshmi Narasimha Temple

The largest statue in Hampi. Narasimha, is seen seated cross legged, supported by a belt, on the coils of a seven-headed snake called Sesha with the head acting as the hood.

He is also referred as Ugra Narasimha (i.e. Narasimha in its terrifying form) deriving the name from the protruding eyes and the fierce facial expressions.

Being the largest monllith in hampi and most impressive, it is located on the southern side of the Hemakuta temples situated on the Hemakuta Hill.

The original statue contained the image of goddess Lakshmi, consort of the god, sitting on his lap which is now missing, probably damaged by invasions with only the hand visible in an embracing posture. The hand with the nails & the rings on her fingers is beautifully carved.

Pampa Sarovar

Pampa Sarovar, situated in a beautiful valley, south of tungabadhra, is a beautiful & revered lake near Anegundi and famous for its religious significance.

The pond rectangular is shape with floating lotus with the shrine located in a secluded valley hidden by boulder hills at the three sides. 

The ancient whitewashed shrine is located right next to the pond. This is a functioning temple where Lord Shiva & his consort Parvathi (Pampa) are worshipped

A musical instrument placed in the temple driven by motor simultaneously plays a drum, metal plates and a couple of bells attached to it. 

Opposite to the temple kitchen, under a mango tree is a circular platform where there is a Vinayaka statue painted in florescent vermilion.

About a kilometer north on the main road is a rightward departing path leading towards Pampa Sarovar tracing the ridge of the rocky hill. 

Prasanna Virupaksha temple 

Prasanna Virupaksha temple, one of oldest temples in Hampi and built during the Vijayanagara Empire, is located near the main road to Hampi bus stand and close to the Noblemen’s quarters after Chandikesvara temple.

This Siva temple, believed to be one of the oldest, is unique because it is built many meters below the ground level and almost all the time major part of the temple is under water, thereby restricting entry to the inner areas.

A water canal system, currently dry, runs around around the main temple. A small santum for Shiva’s consort and a magnificent marriage hall are seen.

The entry to the temple passes through the main tower in front of the temple campus. This incomplete tower appears to be a later. The wide  steps along tower and the sanctum leads you to the inner part of the temple. We find big cubical pillars supporting the roof with the lamp post protruding from the roof. 

There is a beautiful lawn around the temple

The Queen’s Bath 

The Queen’s Bath is a huge bath structure known for architectural beauty and located close to the Royal Enclosure

Constructed during the Vijayanagara Empire, the Queen’s Bath stands even 500 years after its construction.

This is the first ruined structure you would see when you enter into the Royal center from the Kamalapura-Hampi main road.

It is presumed that this was a royal pleasure complex for the king and his wives. There is a veranda around facing a big open pond with balconies projecting into it.  An aqueduct terminates in the pond.

The balconies are decorated with tiny windows and supported by lotus bud tipped brackets. The brick lined empty pool is open to the sky. The flight of steps in the verandah accesses the poll. The royals had fragrant flowers and perfumed water filled this bathing pool. The roof of veranda is unqiue.

Each dome in verandah had unique design. On the floor of the empty pool some sockets probably meant to support the pillars of a canopy can be seen. 

Outside and around Queen's Bath building is a big water channel encircling the building, which needs to be crossed at some places where a bridge like structure is made, to prevent outsiders from walking into the area where the royal folks took bath!

There is a small garden in front for the queen’s bath, which is now a favourite picnic spot for the locals. The Indo Sarcenic architecture is a unique combination of more Islamic style and less of Hindu style of architecture.

Rangantha temple

This Vishnu Temple is famous for carving of the Ananta Sayana of lord Vishnu in great detail. The temple is located near Achyut Raya’s temple.

The long rectangular shrine, with a stepped porch has a sanctum fitted with a metal door. The images in sanctum sanctorum are better visible during day time.

Lord Vishnu  with four arms is in a reclining posture on the coiled body of the cosmic snake seven headed Anantha who forms a canopy over Vishnu’s head.

Vishnu’s right hand supports his head while the other right holds the Chakra. The other left hands hold a conch named Panchajanya; the second left hand rests by his side.

His two consorts – Lakshmi and Bhudevi, – sits side by side with his feet resting on their laps.

The image of Brahma, the foure-headed creator god, carved on a rock,  is seen sitting on a lotus, which sprouts from the navel of Vishnu.  

Royal enclosure

The most imposing structure in this area is the Mahanavami Dibba or the Dussehra Platform or the ‘House of Victory’.

King’s Audience Hall or the 100 Pillared Hall is located within the enclosure in the northwest area.

Stepped tank is located in the southeast area.

Adjacent to this is another tank used as a bathing area. Further at the southwest corner is another huge swimming pool style tank (now empty) is located.

The underground chamber is located somewhere between the King’s Audience hall and the Stepped Tank.

The Royal enclosure area is lined with many relics of buildings, crisscrossing aqueducts supplying water to these water bodies etc. The royal enclosure area appears like a wide-open ground with little shelters inside. A good amount of walking to be done as vehicles, including bicycles have to be parked outside this area. Visit in the evenings or early mornings, would be less hot as an hour at least needed cover the place. .

Sasivekalu Ganesha 

In view of the resemblance the giant monolithic Ganesha statue, located in the foothill of hemakunta, is locally called Sasivekalu(mustard seed)Ganesha. 

Lord Ganesha is known for his voracious appetite.  The popular myth is he ate so much of food that his tummy was bursting and hence he caught a snake and tied it around his tummy as a belt to save it

On this statue you can see the snake carved around his tummy. He is seen holding the goad, pasha (noose), and his broken tusk. The hand holding modak is broken. Carved out of a huge boulder, this statue measures about 2.4 meters (8 feet). Near the open pavilion around the statue are inscriptions dating the construction to 1506

North of Sasivekalu Ganesha is another giant statue of Ganesha, called The Kadalekalu Ganesha. Within walkable distance is the Vishnupada shrine and all these can be covered in 30-45 minutes.

A site map of Hampi installed by the archeology department is found in front of the Ganesha

Akka Tangi Gudda (sister rocks)

Akka Tangi Gudda or Akka Thangi Gudda is an ancient natural formation of two gigantic rocks located at Kaddirampura, close to the main road leading from Hampi to Kamlapur. 

These giant boulders lean against each other, showing an archway formation with the road almost passing through the stones. It is found on the left side of the main road while going from the Underground Shiva Temple towards Hampi village square. Akka-Thangi Gudda means ‘sister stones’ in the local language.

According to local folklore they were two sisters and they were cursed to became stone when they ridiculed the place.

In the recent past due to increased vehicle trafiic, one of the boulders developed a fissure and partly collapsed

Badavilinga Temple 

Badavilinga Temple, located near lakshmi Narasimha temple,is a wonderful temple in Hampi dedicated to Lord Shiva in Linga form. 

This is the largest Linga image in Hampi housed inside a chamber with an opening in front. The sanctum is filled with water as a water channel flows through. There are three eyes carved on it. It got the name as it was commissioned by a peasant woman. (Badva means poor in local tongue).

River Ganga (Ganges) was brought from heaven to earth by Bhagiratha. Due to its forceful flow, Lord Shiva allowed Ganga to flow through his  matted hair to facilitate smooth flow on to earth. Representation of this is seen by dripping pot hanged over the Linga.  

Both Lakshmi Narasimha & Badavi Linga shrines can be visited together

Stepped tank

The stepped tank also known as the Pushkarani, is a rock structure now but the design shows that it had an important place in the royal realm. Resembling a typical Rajasthani stepped tank, it allows to take a view of the surrounding areas. There are a number of other stone temples, buildings and monuments surrounding this stepped tank. A delight for Trekkers.

The stone tank a square structure with five steps that becomes smaller as they go down. From the top, the length of each side of the step is 20.7, 16.10, 12.65, 9.2 and 6.9 meters respectively. Each side has very attractive pyramidal shaped flight of steps to get into the next lower side. There are 9, 7, 5, 3 and 1 steps respectively in each side making a total of  one hundred steps. Each tier is 1.05 meters and the total depth is 6.65 meters. The base of the tank has sand to purify the water. The symmetry of the pyramidal shaped steps makes the structure unique and elegant. Arrangements were for the flow of fresh water into the tank then used for for religious purposes.

Stone doors

Stone Doors in Hampi are an impressive pair of monolith doors that were part of one of the entrances of the Royal Enclosure. Located near the Mahanavami Dibba platform, the remarkable stone doors are believed to be a part of the fortification of the enclosed area..

Though the stone doors being one of the prominent remnants of the Vijayanagara period, are no longer attached to any structure and are no longer functional, they do not fail to capture the interest of the visitors.

One can easily miss these pair of doors as there are other amazing structures nearby. These massive doors could have been the entrance of an important royal building.

The doors are  positioned in such a way that it is possible to see the details on both its surfaces. The doors are a replica of each other and complete with bolts and the pivot shafts at the end. Note the mullions with protruding lotus buds at its junctions, a typical feature of massive wooden doors. Only an elephant could have pushed open these door panels during its functional days.

From here you can also head towards Zenana Enclosure 

Talarigatta Gate 

Talarigatta Gate (or Talarighatta Gate ) was one of the main entrance points into the urban centre of the capital from the riverside. Through this damaged arched gateway, the main road to Talarigatta from Kamalapura pass through. Located in front of this gate is a tiny shrine of Hanuman

It’s possible to reach the top area of this gateway. From there the extending fortifications are visible. Talarigata means tollgate which could have been the intent

Chintamani temple / Sugreeva cave / Kodandarama temple

One of the important event in Ramayana took place here.

The fourth chapter - Kishkindha Kanda - has special significance to the landscape of Hampi. According to the local folklore, the events in this episode happened in the environs of Hampi after Rama and Lakshmana reached Hampi.

Kishkinda was witnessing  a power struggle between Vali and Sugreeva. Sugreeva chased out of the kingdom took refuge at Matunga Hill, which Vali could not access in view of a curse on him..

Hanuman, thinking that Rama and Lakshmana have been sent by Vali, approaches them in disguise and on quizzing them realises the truth.

Rama kills Vali and installs Sugreeva as the king. Hanuman goes to Lanka in search of Sita.

The Anjaneya Hill, across the river is the place believed to be where Hanuman was born.

Rishimukh island which is considered holy, is the place where Hanuman first meets Rama and Lakshmana. A hermitage at the centre and Chandramouleshwara Temple in the east is seen

Sugreeva’s Cave is found located on the banks of the river on the way to Vittala Temple. Sita drops her jewels as a sign to aid Rama when being taken by Ravana which kept safe by Sugreeva is shown to Rama. Even the marks on the rock surface here are equated with the motifs on Sita’s sari (costume). The pond here is known after Sita’s name.

The cave near the temple called Chintamani is where, according to beliefs, Rama met Sugriva along with Hanuman. There is a footprint impression on the rocky sheet. It's at this spot from where Rama aimed and shot the arrow at Vali. 

Chintamani is the name of a precious stone (jewel) given by Rama to Hanuman here to let Sita identify him as Rama's messenger. 

The riverbank near Kodandarama Temple, near the Sugreeva’s cave is where Sugriva was crowned Sugriva by Rama after killing Vali.

Uddana Veerabhadra temple 

Uddana Veerabhadra temple is an ancient shrine built during vijayanagara period, having the largest statue of the demon King Veerabhadra.

The temple on the road to Hampi, is located southeast to the Chandikesvara Temple and between the Sacred Centre and the Royal Enclosure. The main road just passes between the temple and the monolithic lamp-post.

The whitewashed temple is actually a prominent religious destination. According to the inscription, Uddana Veerabhadra temple is also known as Mudduviranna temple.

Sati, daughter of Daksha married Lord Shiva. Daksha does not respect Shiva and thinks ill of him in view of his attire. For a ritual, Daksha invites all the Gods and sages excluding Sati and Shiva. However despite advise from Shiva, she attends the function and gets insulted by Daksha who also abuses her Husband. Unable to withstand the humiliation, Sati commits suicides by jumping into the sacrificial fire at the venue.

On hearing this, Lord Shiva gets furious with Daksha.  In anger He rips off a piece of his matted hair and throws on to the ground and the demon god Veerabhadra and goddess Kali appear. They create a havoc terror at Daksha's place and finally kill him. When the gods appeal for mercy. Shiva offers to restore Daksha's life by replacing the head of the first animal he encounters and finds a goat. Daksha comes back to life with the goat's head and becomes his devotee. Veerabhadra is an incarnation of Lord Shiva himself and Kali as his consort. In the later incarnation Sati becomes Parvathi (Pampa) and remarries Shiva.

Hampi ruins show evidence of the existence of this cult (people who worship gods in furious forms) as against the sober gods of Vaishnavites (those worship various incarnations of Lord Vishnu). Probably the Veerabhadra Temple, also locally known as Muddu Veeranna in the local tongue, is equally old as the Virupaksha Temple. 

The 3.6 meter high monolithic idol of Uddana Veerabhadra with four arms holding an arrow, sword, bow and shield, depicting the warrior nature, is the main deity here. One should also notice a tiny image of Daksha nearby. The Sarvanga Linga (twin superimposed Linga) installed at this temple is rare. The priests of this temple are of Lingayath community and not from the Brahmin community. Opposite to Uddana Veerabhadra Temple is the Chandikesvara Temple.

Vittala temple

Vittala Temple is the most exquisite architectural showpiece of Hampi. Built in a huge campus with compound wall and gateway towers, contains many halls, pavilions and temples.

Vittala, after whom the temple is known, is Lord Vishnu and worshipped as their deity by the cattle herds 

Originally built in the 15th century AD, Many rules have added structures to the complex. The remains of a township called Vittalapura that existed around this temple complex can be seen. The highlight is the pillared halls and the stone chariot besides sculptures on the granite pillars. 

There is a ticker counter in the east. There is a set of compact platforms along the central line of the campus and at the end stands the Stone Chariot. The shrine is built in the form of a temple chariot. An image of Garuda (the eagle god), the vehicle of Vishnu, facing the sanctum, was originally enshrined within its sanctum. 

It is sometimes referred to as a monolithic structure. Built with granite blocks, the joints are hidden by the carvings and other decorative features on the Stone Chariot. The chariot is on a rectangular platform which is carved with mythical battle scenes. Though the chariot is not resting on it, the four giant wheels look like real ones complete with the axis shafts & the brakes with concentric floral motifs adorning the wheels. It is possible that looking at the marks on the platform, where the wheels rest, they were free to move around the axis

The remains of the painting on the carvings of the chariot can be seen. The undercarriage of the chariot shows the well preserved specimens of this kind of paintings. It is believed that using Minerals, the Vittala Temple’s sculptures were beautifully painted in the same style.

The  two elephants positioned in front of the chariot appear to be pulling the chariot. In fact these elephants where brought from elsewhere and replaced the original two horses whose tails and the rear legs can be still seen behind these elephant sculptures. A broken stone ladder used to access the sanctum is kept between the elephants. The marks on the floor and the doorsill where once the ladder positioned for use can be seen.

The main hall though partially damaged is still impressive Facing the  Chariot, taking a series of steps flanked by elephant railings, the elevated open hall called Maha-Mantapa (the great hall) standing on a decorated platform with motiffs, can be reached. We can also see giant lion Yalis fighting the relatively small elephants. The lowermost of it is a chain of horses, its trainers and traders.

The Maha-Mantapa contains four open halls where three of them, south, north and the east are still intact. The central western hall is collapsed, probably due to the destruction an d looting that followed the fall of the capital.

The main highlight of the Maha-Mantapa is its carved giant monolithic pillars. The outermost slender and short pilasters of the pillars are called the musical pillars which when tapped produces music. These are standard tones but the musical tone earned it the name

The eastern hall called the musicians hall is notable for sculptures of musicians on the pillars. Each of the pillars surrounding this hall is sculptured with images of musicians, drummers and dancers.

The southern hall is dominated with the mythical creatures called Yalis. 

The northern hall is surrounded with a series of pillars with the Narasimha (the man-lion incarnation of Vishnu) themes including the one of Narasimha slaying Hiranyakashipu with  Prahlada in a praying posture.

The ceilings of the halls too are of interest with the lotus like carving at the centre.

Further west is a closed hall with two porches and ahead is the sanctum.

A narrow and unlit passageway encircles the inner sanctum which has no Idol. The steps on either sides of the main door leads to passage. On the outer wall one can see highly decorated Kumbha-Pankajas. (motifs where lotus flower flows out of a pot). A image of a bull and elephant with a shared head is unique with the left portion is seen as a complete bull and the right as an elephant!

The other attractions are the Goddess’s shrine in the northwest, the 100-pillared hall at the southwest, the Kalyana Mantapa in the southeast and the pillared cloisters all around the enclosure wall.

You can reach Vittala temple in two ways. The first is by the road and the second is by a walk along the riverbank from Hampi Bazaar. You can take and auto rickshaw from Hampi bus stand to Vittala temple. Or catch a local bus first from Hampi bus stand to Kamapapura and then from Kamaplapura to Vittala temple (ask any one at the Kamalapura bus stand to spot you the right bus)

The Virupaksha Temple 

The Virupaksha Temple in Hampi is dedicated to lord Shiva. This temple was constructed though the assistance by Lakkana Dandesha’s, a commander under King Deva Raya II. It is also believed to be the oldest and uninterruptedly functioning temple

This temple is located on the south bank of the river Tungabadra, and the annual festivals attract huge crowd. 

The original worship place which is as old as 7th century was only a few shrines. The temple gradually expanded into a sprawling complex with many sub shrines, pillared halls, flag posts, lamp posts, towered gateways and a temple kitchen. The east facing giant tower (Gopura) leads to the first courtyard of the temple complex. The pastel painted 9 storied tower with a pair of cow horn like projections on top is the most prominent landmark in Hampi with the lower two tiers of the tower showing decorated stone work.

The superstructure is made with brick and mortar with interesting stucco figures in the exterior of first tier. Since the tower is tall, it is better viewed from distance to appreciate its Work. One such example are the erotic figures located at the south side of the tower. They are connected with fertility rites and are considered auspicious on a sentimental ground. 

The main temple is east facing with two large courtyards. The first courtyard has a pillared hall called 100-column hall at the left corner, Kalyanamantapa at the right corner, administrative offices, the ticket counter, a police outpost and an old well. A kitchen complex overlapping the two courts at the south wall is seen with a built in water channel system. A narrow passage on the wall of the 100 pillared hall gives access to the kitchen. 

The triple headed Nandi (bull statue) is unusual

Gagan Mahal

The Gagan Mahal displays the exceptional skill of the engineers who existed more 500 years before today. The palace remains cool even in the hot summer months.

Even during that time, the engineers managed to construct the palace in such a manner that it needed no artificial air conditioning to keep it cool. It had a functional pool with a water drainage system.

Presently in ruined condition, Parts of the palace is used as the local administrative office.

Lack of proper maintenance is clearly visible to the extent that the original beauty of the palace cannot be seen.

Only some parts offer a glimpse of the real beauty of the palace. However the palace has not lost its charm and attraction.

Hampi route map

Points to consider:

1. Local travel can be done by engaging autos/taxis. We travelled by Rock Shiva's Auto (94812 91255) who was very polite and could take us around comfortably for 2 days and cover the locations. Speaks and understands english reasonably well. He can also pick you up and drop back at hospete.

2. The place is Strictly vegetarian and no liquor is allowed.

3. Though we stayed in a resort we had breakfast in Sri lakshmi fast food which was quite good.

4. Better to check the weather and carry umbrellas.

5. Better keep fit as lot of walking and trekking is involved

6. Carry a good camera/mobile with good camera

7. If you are going through hospet, you can buy casual eats from there.

8. Take a guide for Vittala and Royal enclosure. Otherwise you might miss a lot.

9. If you are travelling from chennai there are direct sleeper buses from chennai to Hospete.

10. Not all places need entry tickets. 

11. Take good comfortable foot wear